The best, most comprehensive, most in-depth, how-to guide for TV mounting on the internet

Home Construction in the U.S. can vary widely depending on the construction practices and building codes during the time it was built, as well as the structure type (Residential or commercial)

Wall surfaces and types: Plaster and lath, plaster and wire mesh, plaster and steel lath, plaster on wafer board, plaster over wood planks, drywall on wood studs, drywall on metal studs, double layer drywall, drywall on hat track on concrete or  brick, drywall directly on concrete or brick, drywall on wood furring strips on brick or concrete, plaster on brick or concrete, drywall over plywood (for code), wood paneling of various types

Watching out for electrical and plumbing (important notes): Knowing where to expect planning and electrical is a skill, but to keep this brief; if you have taken the time to read and understand the instructions that I give,  and properly locate a stud, then you are safe from worry. However, in the event that you are not attaching to a stud, be sure to not use fasteners greater than 1 1/14,” and always drill and drive screws cautiously.

Overview of residential construction: Most personal dwelling spaces like single or multi-family homes are considered residential construction except those that were built for the explicit purpose of conducting business operations, whether that is a real estate rental building exceeding 4 units (generally) or an industrial warehouse or factory, the latter structures would be considered commercial construction.

Commercial construction: Commercial buildings are usually held to higher building quality standards, stricter building codes, and overall construction practices can vary widely depending on the structures intended use. For example, an office building may have different fire code, safety, and electrical requirements as opposed to something like a factory or warehouse. Building size and height is also a very important factor in determining how a particular structure is engineered and subsequently built.

Residential Construction: Residential construction depends on national and local building, plumbing, electrical, and fire codes, which designate how structures will be built and any special material requirements. Homes in the U.S. are primarily of two types: Balloon and platform framing, both sometimes referred to as stick framing because although they are structurally different, they utilize a wood frame, which I call the bones of the structure, wrapped on the outside with wood sheets or planks and on the inside with some version of plaster or gypsum board (commonly known as drywall or sheetrock) in most cases. Now here’s where it gets interesting, over the years wall materials have changed with much preference being given to the homeowner so long as it meets building codes.

Interior wall residential construction

Let’s talk about common wall types.

Plaster: Is a wet, free hand applied material, made from a binder like gypsum (calcium sulfate) mixed with cement, lime, sand and water into a cake icing like consistency and applied by hand using a tool called a trowel and forced into or on the base material (typically a wire or steel mesh, wood lath, or engineered board material) in several layers until the surface is a smooth, consistent, even finish throughout after the drying period. If your home was built prior to the 1960’s there is a high likelihood that your walls interior was or still is made of plaster.

Attaching a TV to plaster:

Tools needed:

Tape Measure

level

drill or driver (12 volts or higher but preferably 18v minimum)

Pencil (let’s not use a pen)

#2 Phillips head bit and adapter or extension if needed for your drill

1/8” or 5/32” inch carbide drill bit

13mm, 10mm, and 7/16” sockets with a 3/8” or 1/2” drive with a 3/8 or 1/2” drill adapter depending on TV lag bolt size.

A higher end stud finder (usually $40 & up) Why? Plaster is usually attached to a base material, and since the base material plus the thickness and density of the plaster is usually too thick for most lower end stud finders, a higher end finder is recommended for best results. Electronic Stud finders work by detecting changes in density beyond the surface, but if the surface is too thick the stud finder will give false readings and it will require much more skill to use lower end stud finders on plaster and still reach the desired result without destroying your walls with drill holes. Especially with plaster, always check multiple points on the wall, marking stud locations to the left and right of the desired studs you intend to use and checking to make sure the distance between each marked stud location is 16” apart from each other. So what’s a stud? a stud is a vertical framing member (wood or metal) and usually 2” wide, 4” deep and runs from the bottom to the top of the wall. these studs are spaced in intervals typically 16” from the center of one stud to the center of the next stud. However, sometimes they are 12” on center, 19 3/16”, and 24” to accommodate standard nominal sheet goods like drywall and exterior sheathing being applied. The stud is the structural framing member, this is where the strength is and what you typically want to attach heavier items to instead of using the wall surface alone (the skin), you use the bones. There are options for attaching to the wall surface and we’ll address that later on.

Using the stud finder on Plaster: To use the stud finder on plaster, move the stud finder horizontally across the wall slowly, paying attention to when the tool lights or beeps. when a light or beep is indicated, move back and forth  across the point to verify that there was indeed a detection, now move the tool vertically in a straight line, it should remain lit or continue to light up periodically as it follows the studs length, repeat the process to the left and right of each stud that you want to use and mark each location. Now check the distance between the points, if you have found studs then the distance between the points will be roughly one of the latter mentioned standard spacing measurements: 12, 16, 19 3/16, or 24” apart. If you have indeed found studs with one of these spacing arrangements, sit down and have a beer, then call your mama and tell her you made it (kidding). Go to the location of the studs you want to use and measure out precisely where your hole needs to be, make you marks, and drill a test hole. To drill a test hole, you can either use a screw (no longer than 1 5/8” or a thin drill bit (1/8” or 5/32”) a 3/16” will do but it may make your hole a bit too big for your fastener. While drilling or screwing, look for material engagement all the way through, your pressure should be able to remain constant, and you shouldn’t feel a relief from pushing, proceeed cautiously and slowly. After roughly an inch pull the bit or screw out and put it near your nose, now take a sniff,  it should hit your bloodstream immediately like a bag of heroin (kidding). You should smell the traces of burning wood, or a wood smell similar to going to the lumber yard or smelling a wood burning fireplace. If you are using a screw then the screw should be firm, it should have grip, it should feel like a solid connection with very little wiggle or being able to turn by hand. If you were successful after these steps congratulations, if not, repeat the latter steps, double check the distances, move 1/2” left and right of the test hole if need be and you should hit the target. Once you have located your studs you can move vertically on that location to get the desired height you intend to mount the TV at, then use the including TV mount hardware to attach the mount to those locations using the appropriate size nut driver and adapter.

Mounting to Sheetrock (Drywall): Attaching to sheetrock follows a similar process to that of plaster. So what is sheetrock (drywall)? well as the name indicates it is essentially a sheet of rock. A mix of natural (Gypsum or Calcium Sulfate) and artificial rock (which is a derivative of coal mines mixed with an emulsifier until it becomes a slurry like fluid that is then dispensed onto a paper face and backing, then pressed and baked between the two sheets of paper making somewhat of a rock sandwich. The properties are similar to that of plaster but the material is differentiated by its flexibility and softness allowing for much wider usage across the construction industry. Its strength is primarily in its pressed density and the paper face and backing that holds it all together. There are options for mounting on the wall surfaces alone but for now we’ll focus on Stud mounting only because that will yield the best, most long lasting result. It is important to note that sheetrock comes in different thicknesses and length/width dimensions, with thickness ranging from 1/4” to 1” thick, the most common thicknesses used in residential home construction is 1/2” and 5/8.” Sheet length ranges from 8’ to 16’ long and the height ranges from 2’ to 4.5 ‘ tall.

Tools Needed

Tape Measure

level

stud finder

drill or driver (12 volts or higher but preferably 18v minimum)

Pencil (let’s not use a pen)

#2 Phillips head bit and adapter or extension if needed to fit your drill

1/8” or 5/32” inch carbide drill bit

13mm, 10mm, and 7/16” sockets with a 3/8” or 1/2” drive with a 3/8 or 1/2” drill adapter depending on TV lag bolt size.

eye protection

Using A stud finder on sheetrock/drywall:

To use a stud finder on a gypsum board, place the tool onto the wall surfaces alone and slowly move it horizontally across the wall, taking note of any light indications or beeps from the tool. Once you have found locations where you intent to mount the item, find an additional stud to the left and right of the location. Now check the distance between the points. The distance should be one of the measurements indicated in the latter paragraph on mounting to plaster. The measurements are 12, 16, 19 3/16”, or 24.” if you have found that your marks roughly match up to one of the latter measurements, congratulations! The next step is to drill a test hole. To drill a test hole, you can can either use a screw (no longer than 1 5/8” or a thin drill bit (1/8” or 5/32) a 3/16” will do but it may make your hole a bit too big for your fastener. While drilling or screwing, look for material engagement all the way through, your pressure should be able to remain constant, and you shouldn’t feel a relief from pushing, proceeed cautiously and slowly. After roughly an inch pull the bit or screw out and put it near your nose, now take it sniff. it should hit your bloodstream immediately like a bag of heroin (kidding). You should smell the traces of burning wood, or a wood smell similar to going to the lumber yard or smelling a wood burning fireplace. If you are using a screw then the screw should be firm, it should have grip, it should feel like a solid connection with very little wiggle or being able to turn by hand. If you were successful after these steps congratulations, if not, repeat the latter steps, double check the distances, move 1/2” left and right of the test hole if need be and you should hit the target. Once you have found your studs you can place the mount onto the wall, use the proper socket and adapter to drive the included lag bolts into the wall through the mounting plate making sure that the mount is level before fully tightening. You can now place your tv on to the mount, kick back, call your friends and tell them that you mounted your own TV.

Alternate stud mounting: Mounting on Metal studs

How to mount on metal studs: For starters, what is, and why use metal studs? Metal or rather steel (since steel technically isn’t a metal since it’s a combination of iron and carbon which makes it an alloy) studs are widely known as metal studs. Metal studs are typically used in commercial construction, but can be used in residential as well even though not required and less common are sometimes used in basements to fend against the moisture that basements experience since steel studs are coated in a galvanic coating which helps to resist rusting due to moisture. If you are in a building with more than 5 floors (although this may change with the advent of CLT Lumber) the building code requires steel studs for fire resistance since steel isn’t a combustable material. Steel studs are a flat sheet of steel, which can range from 10 gauge or 3.4mm to 25 Gauge or 0.45mm, that are pressed or bent into a C shape, and hollow in the middle with the most common thickness used in construction being 25 gauge. The steel has pre-knocked out holes for running cables and plumbing which make them lightweight, and quick to install with minimal tools. Mounting: To mount to steel/metal studs, you would follow the same process indicated in the previous mounting examples but i’ll reiterate for maximum clarity;

Tools needed:

self drilling sheet metal screws 1 5/8”

level

stud finder (electronic or magnetic)

1/2” titanium or cobalt drill bit to fit your drill (impact type bit will be required for drill driver)

or drill

10mm, 13mm and 7/16” sockets with a 3/8” or 1/2” drive sockets and a 3/8” or 1/2” socket drill adapter depending on the sockets purchased

pencil (no pen)

measuring tape

#2 phillips head bit with drill adapter or extension if needed to fit your drill

eye protection

Supplies needed: 4 1/4” Snap toggles/togglers anchors or their equivalent

How to mount: Start by finding the desired look height that you want to mount your tv and at what level line you need to drill the holes. You can find this by placing the tv mount at the desired height and location (see other blog “where to mount my tv?”) while holding it in place, place a level on top with a free hand and make sure the mount is level, then mark the height the holes need to be. Now, place your stud finder on the wall and slowly move it horizontally across the surface taking note of areas that have a consistent beep or indicator light each time you pass it, mark those locations with the indicated beep. If using a magnetic mount simply place the magnetic tool on the wall and wherever its sticks to the wall would indicate a stud. Once you have found studs that you want to mount to, check for additional studs to the left and right of those locations while marking out the points. Then measure the distance between the points. The standard distance for wall construction to accommodate nominal size sheeting goods is 12, 16, 19 3/16”, and 24” with 16” and 24” being the most common. Once you’ve checked the measurements between the points and found the usage of one of these spacing intervals you can proceed with doing a test drill in the desired hole locations (not in random spots) Try driving a normal screw into the desired stud location, if the screw goes a short distance and then begins to spin in place then that is indicative of a stud. Be sure to pay close attention to the depth of the screw, if you have 5/8” sheetrock or less then the screw won’t travel far before contacting a stud. After verifying that you have indeed found the stud location grab your 1 5/8” (no longer) self drilling screw and use that to pre drill a hole in the metal stud. Now that you have a pre drilled hole you can follow it up with your 1/2” titanium bit. Proceed slowly with moderate pressure, if you notice the stud bending inward, stop drilling and add a screw just above or below the hole (don’t countersink the screw at all) to hold the stud in place then continue drilling. Steel requires a lower speed to avoid overheating and subsequently burning the drill bit tip out prematurely. Once have the holes drilled be sure to pass the drill bit though gently moving it up and down to clear any left over metal or debris. Now insert your snap toggle anchor, pull it tight and snap off the excess. You are now ready to place your mount onto the wall, insert the included 1/4” machine screws that pair with the anchor, check for level and make any necessary adjustments, then tighten everything up. It is important to note that there is no need to over tighten, snug up the screws enough so the mount feels firm and can’t be shifted from its place by hand and then place your tv on it. YOU DID IT!

Mounting a TV to Masonry:

Tools needed:

Level

measuring tape

fine point marker is best but a pencil will also do

drill driver or drill

3/8” carbide tipped drill bit

10mm, 13mm and 7/16” socket with 3/8” or 1/2” drives and a 1/2” or 3/8” socket drill adapter (depending on the socket drive size you purchase)

respiratory protection

eye goggles

Plastic concrete anchors (usually included) 3/8” to fit 5/16” lag bolts into (1/4” Tapcon screws can alternatively be used without anchors by drill a hole with the included tap on drill bit).

How to mount: Start by finding the desired location and height (read blog where to mount my tv) place the mount onto the wall in the desired location with one hand and with the other place the a level on top if there isn’t one built in, once you’ve checked for level and  marked the desired location, you can begin to drill one hole using your 3/8” carbide drill bit (only drill one hole) Be sure to stay clear of any joints in the brick or block as the compressive strength of this material isn’t as high. A carbide tipped bit will work on concrete (poured or block) as well as red brick. Be sure not to round or enlarge the hole as the diameter is very important. Insert a plastic anchor into the drilled hole and hammer in if necessary (hammer fitting is desired). Now Place the mount onto the wall again and drive a lag screw through the mounting plate and into the plastic anchor (don’t fully tighten). The mount should hang unassisted and move freely. You can now straighten the mount to a near level position with one hand and then place a level on top if one isn’t built into the mount. Once level you can mark the location of the remaining holes. Note: you can tighten the first bolt once nearly level to facilitate leveling and marking and then loosen it and turn the mount out the way to drill the remaining holes. Now that all the holes are drilled, you can insert the remaining plastic anchors and subsequently the included lag bolts then tighten once level has been thoroughly checked. Next is to place the TV on the mount and be proud of yourself. YOU DID IT!

Wall Anchor mounting: Using wall anchors to mount a tv is possible on plaster, drywall, as well as concrete block and brick. Anchor important note to start: My recommendation is to never use wall anchors without at-least one stud for full motion TV mounts. My only recommendation for anchor usage would be for that of the flat/static/fixed mount variety with the exception of concrete block. A full motion TV mounted onto hallow concrete block is not a problem with a snap toggle anchor. For Drywall and plaster I do not recommend using wall anchors on a full motion mount ever since the force is multiplied once the tv moves away from the mounting point and the weight applied to the anchors will vary widely with bolt torque also being a major factor in whether the the wall will fail or not. The only recommended wall anchors for tv’s by me is the snap toggle/toggle, toggle bolt variety, 1/4” in thickness. Follow the manufacturer instructions carefully when using this variety to mount your TV without using studs on drywall or plaster.